Classic Honda Caliper Rebuild - Part 1 Piston Removal

Classic Honda Caliper Rebuild - Part 1 Piston Removal

Part 1 of 3 Classic Honda Motorcycle Caliper Rebuild including caliper removal and best way to strip caliper and remove pistons.

Transcript

hi there i'm mark from break crafters and today i'm going to go through this single sided on the caliper now first off you can have to excuse me i've had four cups of coffee and this morning I woke up with an English accent so you're just gonna have to bear with me this one the caliper was used on so many different bikes from the early 80s from 1981 up into about 1987 we're going to go through all different aspects on that so one of the first things I want to show you is it all the Honda calipers of this period was stamped with the diameter which is the piston by am tucked you can just sit here on the top end look for the arrow and just above it there you go you see it says 30 so that's a 30 millimeter diameter piston and they have two of them in this caliper and so this caliper was used in many different forms and it used for different piston sizes from 25.5 27 30 millimeter and thirty two millimeter so it's something that's well worth having a look at especially if people the caliper off of ebay or you put them a breakers and all you know you put it off a friend or something you will know the origin pen and what caliper it is slightly to be drawn so I'd say 30 millimetres and it will give you an indication now on this there's also another point you can have a quick look at just to double check I mean obviously you can check it by getting it but you'd be able to see straight out of the box there's another market and you can't really see this but it actually says L and that means it's a left so if it's a left you know it's a front left caliper these calipers we use on both front and rear of many of the hunk bikes so you know as I just gives you a backdrop now we get started one will do is just show you some of the stuff that we're going to need obviously you'll spanner possibly a 10 mil spanner you want to have a couple of sockets usually it's a 12 millimeter for the banjo bolt but sometimes you'll find it can also be a 14 millimeter depending on how original your machine knees so you want to have these two hand another thing is useful is this which is just a siphon pump really great makes it makes it a lot less mess to just drain all your fluid out of your calipers and as I as I go through it you'll see what we need usual stuff brake cleaner and detergent detergent you want to make sure isn't is friendly to aluminum so just check the back of the detergent that you use now another thing is useful is get yourself a tray and also some rags because armful she doing breaks can be quite messy and you don't want to get brake fluid on anything that you you want to keep now here we have the shins now the shims are very important it was a 4 foot length I've cut it down into four inches and it's one and a half inch wide and it's 1/8 in thickness that's great I need about 6 pieces looks like you get this down at Ace Hardware it's about 10 bucks cut them up and that will work great now here with the caliper before we start what I want to do just give the bike a complete clean beforehand before you get into it it just makes the job easier and nicer now is my CEO Jerry rigged this here just to show as an example but what we want to do is once you've got it clean got it on the bench we're going to start going through each of these calipers haven't yet probably haven't been off for ages so everything can be likely to seize up so you seal them main joke well you've got another 10 mil which is a clip retainer bowl even the bleed nipple we want to do just release them and then then just slow them up just so you know everything's free on that to then bleed the brakes and so useless I can pump it this just go straight over the bleed nipple you not have to worry about any different pieces of the map just say nice and snug well reset and young you since the fluid already just coming in straight now you want to make sure the caps off the master cylinder so preventing into a vacuum being created in in the master cylinder and in the sytem pump let's see it just sucks all the fluid out makes it really easy and you want to do this on both sides obviously if you've got a twin caliper setup now this is the real trick to get your Pistons out it's applicable to any calipari build and if you ever use any sort of grips or anything like basically you will destroy the Pistons so the best way to do it is basically pump them out now I always connect them to the rear caliper the ratio the hydraulic ratio on the rear gives you far better leverage and they help to get any stuck piston down so I've just reconnected the front caliper to the rear brake line I've got it all bled through and then that just makes it a lot easier and clearer to sort of be able to do that now you can watch here I'm just going to pump a little bit and we consider Pistons beginning to push through okay now you can see the one here at the rear is being a little bit lazier these aren't coming out too bad but just want to check the check your brake fluid make sure it doesn't want dry on that and then also we'll need the shins and you can just place this into the caliper because what you want to try and do is make sure they all come out nice and evenly as you can see that the piss entangled left is coming out further you want a right hook and brake fluid as I said you just wanna make sure you keep a calm needle you know I have to bleed it through again it stopped up here we go okay so I said we'll get this come through now you can see that piston there on the right coming down now and this is the game this is what we're trying to keep both of the Pistons coming out evenly as possible you thought you don't quite know what the release point is I mean I can tell you with these which is about 1/8 but you still want to get the Pistons to come out nice and evenly so we'll just remove some of the shims pump it through you'll see as it goes on further you actually start to get clear of the corrosion and also the elements are actually keeping the with the piston is stark and she becomes a little bit easier and this is how you still want to keep it as even as possible all the way throughout and say just simple steps we'll come out into the last chin nail almost there on the point of wanting to be pom town okay we're gonna up pitching out this is pretty much as far as you've gone down there you go you see that one there now that has already come past the pressure seal the only thing that's holding that now is the guide seal what I want to try and do is just hold that one just so we can apply that pressure to the LPS and believe me you really want to pump these out just makes it so much easier so my hands in the way here we go we can just see that other piston has just popped out you know pops out because it will go off in a slightly crooked angle okay now next AG's we want to get that and drip tray as I unfortunately this is a bit of a messy job so we'll get the drip tray place it in now just with your finger and thumb and a bit of wiggling there we go pull areas the first one out just good second one out and say we're not using any gratefulness if you use grips on the straight on the person you will manage it you will destroy the test and you should never use a piston that's been out both we shall lay a video with make sure you see about pitting and corrosion so release now one man so it's a little fluid just dripping out this is an absolute best way to get your Pistons out so not gonna cause any damage it's generally the easiest way to do it announcer so long and then better evident put them on the back don't you look all the crap in that this is what build up but even they were these about 30 years old now so alright let the guards in the next video you'll see about getting everything cleaned up and inspect the Pistons okay thank you very much

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